Installation - Engineered Flooring

Engineered Glue Down & Floating Installation Instructions

FLOORING SUPERSTORE Engineered Hardwood Floors can be installed over most subfloors, and are engineered to be dimensionally stable, making them suitable for installation over all grade levels. See all information and installation guidelines below.

Floating Installations

Only the following Engineered floors can be floated: 5/16", 3/8", " and " that is 3" or wider

ATTENTION INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY
Inspect ALL materials carefully BEFORE installation. Wood is a natural product containing natural characteristics such as natural variations in color, tone and graining. Some variation in color is to be expected in a natural wood floor. Even though our product goes through many inspections before it leaves the plant, it is the customers and the installers responsibility for final inspection prior to installation. Warranties DO NOT cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. There may be some regional differences used by your installer that may be correct, yet vary slightly from these instructions, such as the use of felt, rosin paper or polyethylene film.

TOOLS


Basic tools and accessories: broom or vacuum, chalk line, tapping block, Columbia Flooring Cleaner, hand or electric jam saw, miter saw, moisture meter, safety glasses, dust mask, straight edge, table saw, tape measure, 3M Blue Tape, square, utility knife, pry bar, wedges, mineral spirits. See trowel recommendation under glue down installation guidelines. Use a Bostitch Floor Runner (S97125- LHF or S3297- LHF) with 20 gauge 1" or 1 " staple) or a Power Nailer #200 or #250 for nailing with a 1", 1-1/4"or 1-1/2" power cleat. (Note: you must use a 3/8" or " adapter as appropriate with the Power Nailer.

Caution: Improper use of a power nailer can mark the surface of the flooring.

WOOD DUST
Sawing, sanding or machining wood products can produce wood dust, which can cause a flammable or explosive hazard. Wood dust may cause lung, upper respiratory tract, and eye and skin irritation. Some wood species may cause dermatitis and/or allergic respiratory effects. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans. The National Toxicology Program (NTP) has also classified wood dust as a known human carcinogen.

• Avoid dust contact with ignition source.
• Sweep or vacuum dust for recovery or disposal.
• Avoid prolonged or repeated breathing wood dust in air. Approved respirators may be needed depending upon dust conditions.
• Avoid dust contact with eyes and skin. Wear gloves and safety glasses when handling and machining the product.
• FIRST AID: If inhaled, remove to fresh air. If irritation persists, contact a physician.

JONSITE CONDITIONS


Hardwood flooring is designed to perform in an environmentally controlled structure. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the job site subfloor and job site conditions are environmentally and structurally acceptable for wood floor installation at "normal living conditions". The manufacturer declines any responsibility for wood failure resulting from or connected with subfloor, subsurface, job site damage or deficiencies after hardwood flooring has been installed. All substrates must be clean, dry, structurally sound and flat.

HUMIDITY


"Normal living conditions" are defined as having the relative humidity (air) being monitored and maintained at 35% to 55%, and the moisture content of the flooring at 6% to 9%, with a tolerance of +/- 1%. The proper use of a humidifier/de-humidifier is recommended. Wood that is too dry may "crack" or "check". Wood that is too damp will increase in width, causing "cupping' or crowing". A moisture content that is too high may also lead to mildew in extreme conditions. These situations are job site related and not considered a manufacturing defect.

SUBFLOOR PREPARATION AND RECOMMENDATIONS FOR ALL INSTALLATIONS

Concrete Subfloors


New concrete slabs require a minimum of 60 days drying time before covering them with a wood floor. (Must be fully cured)

Lightweight concrete

Lightweight concrete that has a dry density of 100 pounds or less per cubic foot is not suitable for engineered wood floors. Many products have been developed as self-leveling toppings or floor underlayments. These include cellular concrete, resin-reinforced cement underlayments, and gypsum-based materials. Although some of these products may have the necessary qualifications of underlayment for wood flooring installations, others do not.

To test for lightweight concrete, scrape a coin or key across the surface of the subfloor. If the surface powders easily or has a dry density of l00 pounds or less per cubic foot, do not install this Engineered Wood floor.

Concrete subfloors must be dry, smooth (level within 3/16 "in a 10 foot. Radius 1/8 "in 6 ) and free of structural defects. Hand scrape or sand with a 20-grit #3-1/2 open face paper to remove loose, flaky concrete. Grinding high spots in concrete is recommended over using filling compounds. However if a filling/leveling compound is used, it must be of a Portland base compound (min. 3,000 p.s.i.) with a high compressive strength. Concrete must be free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax, grease, dirt, sealers, and curing compounds. These may be removed chemically or mechanically, but do not use solvent-based strippers under any circumstances. The use of residual solvents can prohibit the satisfactory bond of flooring adhesives. It is important to ensure a proper bond between the adhesive and the concrete, and planks or strips. Century hardwood flooring may be installed on grade, above grade, as well as below grade where moisture conditions do not exist.

To ensure a long lasting bond, make sure that the perimeter of the foundation has adequate drainage and vapor barrier.

Wood subfloors

Wood subfloors need to be well nailed or secured with screws. Nails should be ring shanks and screws need to be counter sunk. The wood subfloor needs to be structurally sound (meaning subfloors without loose boards, vinyl or tile). They should not exceed 14% moisture prior to installation. If the sub-floor is single layer, less than " thick, add a single cross layer for strength and stability (minimum 3/8" thick for a total 11/8" thickness). This is to reduce the possibility of squeaking. Wood sub-floors must be free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax, grease, dirt and urethane, varnish etc. Underlayment grade OSB (performance rated) is also a suitable subfloor.
Particleboard is not an acceptable subfloor for staple or nail down installation
, but can be used as a subfloor in glue down installations. When installing over existing wood flooring, install at right angles to the existing floor.

Subfloor moisture check


The recommended wood flooring adhesive may be used for above, on, and below grade applications and on all common substrates. On and below grade applications are susceptible to moisture and should be tested for moisture prior to installation in several locations within the installation area. Acceptable conditions for above, on, and below grade applications are:

• Less than 3lbs./1000 sq. ft./24 hrs. on a calcium chloride test.
• No greater than a reading of 5 on a Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter (moisture meter).
• Wood Substrates must have a moisture reading of less than 14% when using a moisture meter.

To correct any subfloor problems concerning moisture, either wait until the subfloor dries to meet specifications or use an appropriate moisture barrier. For more information concerning moisture conditions, contact Columbia's technical service department.

Subfloors other than wood or concrete

Note: Perimeter glued resilient vinyl and rubber tiles are unacceptable underlayments and must be removed.

Terrazzo tile and any other hard surfaces that are dry, structurally sound and level, as described above, are suitable as a subfloor for this engineered hardwood flooring installation. As above, the surface must be sound, tight and free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, wax, grease and dirt. Terrazzo and ceramic tile must be scuffed to assure adhesion.


WARNING! Do not sand existing resilient tile, sheet flooring, backing, or felt linings. These products may contain asbestos fibers that are not readily identifiable. Inhalation of Asbestos dust can cause Asbestosis or other serious bodily harm. Check with local, state and federal laws for handling hazardous material before attempting the removal of these floors.

Radiant Heated Subfloors


Before installing over a radiant heated floor turn off heat and wait until the floor has reached room temperature (70F-75F). After installing the floor, gradually return the heat to the previous setting.

Note: When radiant heat is installed in concrete, mortar beds, or gypsum cement, it is very important to operate the heating system until these are completely dry before you install your wood flooring on top. (This can take several weeks. Be patient.)

Operate the heating system until the humidity in the structure stabilizes to the average level expected for the area in which the wood floor will be installed. Then allow wood to acclimate to this humidity level before installation. This will minimize dimensional changes due to moisture.

For more information on Radiant Heated Subfloors go to www.NOFMA.org

Caution: The subfloor surface must never exceed 85o F. in temperature.

PREPARATION


Remove all moldings and wall-base and undercut all door casings with a hand or power jam saw using a scrap piece of flooring as a guide.

"Racking the Floor"

Whether you choose to install the floor with glue, nails, or staples start by using random length planks from the carton or by cutting four to five planks in random lengths, differing by at least 6". As you continue working across the floor be sure to maintain the 6" minimum between end joints on all adjacent rows. (See Figures 1A & 1B). Never waste material; use the left over pieces from the fill cuts to start the next row or to complete a row.

Note: When installing a pre-finished wood floor be sure to blend the wood from several cartons to ensure a good grain and shading mixture throughout the installation.

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

When using the glue down method of installation, we recommend using a top quality urethane adhesive, as recommended by your dealer or distributor. Acrylic adhesives should not have water content higher than 15%. If acrylic adhesives are used, do not install a protective cover, such as cardboard or paper, for 48 72 hours after installation to allow for evaporation of water from the glue.

It is very important to follow the guidelines set forth by the glue manufacturer in regards to trowel notch size, glue spread rates, vapor barriers, expansion space sizes, etc.

Please pay close attention to the glue manufacturer's directions, as they may differ, depending on the type of subfloor, width and thickness of engineered flooring used, and the other job site conditions.

Always use safety goggles and follow the safety precautions set forth by the glue manufacturer.

It is important to follow the guidelines set forth in this document in regards to the job site conditions. If the instructions of the glue manufacturer differ from those in this set of instructions, consider using an appropriate glue.

Please remember the bod warranty of the glue is the responsibility of the adhesive manufacturer. Please be aware of, and understand, their warranty prior to installation.

STAPLE OR NAIL DOWN INSTALLATIONS

These Engineered hardwood floors may be installed over wood subfloors using staples or nailing cleats. When installing Century engineered wood planks by nailing or stapling method, it is necessary to use the proper type of flooring stapler or nailer made for Century Engineered Wood Floors.

Recommended Staplers and Nailers

We have tested and recommend the Bostitch Floor Runner (S3297-LHF or S97125-LHF) The recommended staple for the Bostitch Floor Runner is their 1" or 11/4". We have tested and recommend the Power Nailer #200 and #250 nailer using a 1", 1-1/4"or 1" power cleat. You must use the 3/8" or " adapter, as appropriate with the Power Nailer.

Caution: We have tested the above-recommended tools. Other staplers, staples, nailers and cleats may work as well; however, since they are not currently recommended, if their use damages or fails to properly secure the flooring, the responsibility is the installer's and not the manufacturers.

Step 1

You must staple or nail 1" 2" from the ends and every 4" 6" along the edges. This will help insure a satisfactory installation. It is best to set the compressor PSI at 80 - 85lbs. to keep the staples from going through or breaking the tongues. Improper stapling techniques can cause squeaks in the floor.

Adjustments may be necessary to provide adequate penetration of the nail or staple into the nail bed. You want it flush in the nail pocket. Use a scrap piece of flooring material to set tools properly before installation.

Before installation of the engineered flooring begins, install a 6-mil polyethylene layer over the subfloor. This will retard moisture from below and may help prevent squeaks. Keep in mind there is no complete moisture barrier system for staple or nail down installations.

Note: 15 lb roofing felt or resin paper may be substituted for the polyethylene and installed as below.
Installing 6 mil Polyethylene
Install the polyethylene parallel to the direction of the flooring and allow a 3" over run at the perimeter. Make sure each run of polyethylene overlaps the previous run by 6" or more. Do not overlap the felt if it is used.

Layout the job


Measure out from the ends of your starting wall, 2" when installing 2" strip flooring, 3" when installing 3" planks 51/2" when installing 5" planks and mark both ends. Where possible, lay the flooring at 90o angles to the floor joists. Make a chalk line along the starting wall using the marks you made.

Beginning installation

Place the planks with the tongue facing away from the wall and along your chalk line. Use brads or small finishing nails (4d 6d) to secure the first starter row along the wall edge 1" 2" from the ends and every 4" 6" along the side. Counter sink the nails and fill with the filler that blends with the flooring installed. Place the nails in a dark grain spot in the board. The base or shoe molding will cover the nails when installed, after completion of the installation.

Blind nail at a 45o angle through the tongue (See Figure 2). It will be easier IF YOU PRE-DRILL THE HOLES IN THE TO THE HOLES IN THE TONGUE. Nail 1" 2" from the ends and every 4" 6" along the sides. It will be necessary to blind nail the next 2 rows. A brad nailer with 1"-1-/38" brads can also be used to blind nail and no pre-drilling is needed.

Continue the installation using the recommended engineered wood flooring stapler or nailer, using staples or nailer cleats recommended by Century Flooring. Nail or staple the flooring 1" 2" from the end and every 4" 6" along the edge tongue.

Final Touches

Install the proper Century Flooring prefinished trim molding at the doorways to achieve the transition and along the walls to cover the edges of any gaps along the wall due to irregularity.

Complete the job by using filler that blends with the installed flooring to fill any gapping along the joints and clean the finished floor with a hardwood floor cleaner available at your dealer.

Floating Installation

Only the following engineered floors can be floated:

5/16", ", " and 3/8" flooring that are 3" or wider

Subfloor Preparation


The subfloor preparation for a floating engineered floor is much more critical than a glue or staple down wood floor installation. For a standard engineered hardwood floor using either glue, staple or nail down installation method, the subfloor must be leveled (flat) within 3/16" in a 10' radius. With a floating engineered hardwood floor, the level (flatness) in a 10' radius is 1/8". The flatness is critical to a successful installation when floating engineered floors.

Installation

The installation of an engineered wood floor requires the use of 3 in 1 Foam. The use of a moisture barrier is always required over a concrete subfloor or on a 1st floor installation over a crawl space. Because of the dispersion of weight by a 3" or 5" board, a standard high compression or compaction rated foam is required to eliminate risk of a seam malfunction. For other acceptable foam's or sound insulation products contact Technical Services at Century Flooring.

Because this is a floating floor system the glue placement is very important. The glue should be placed along the top side of the groove and the full length of the groove (sides and ends). This can be accomplished by inverting the plank and applying bead of glue (3/32") on the upper side of the groove. When the plank is turned back over the glue will run down the back to create total coverage. If the groove is totally filled with glue, it could hinder the closing of the seams because of excessive glue, thus not allowing a tight fit.

The glue to be used for floating Century engineered flooring should be a laminate adhesive (type D3), any floating floor adhesive or wood glue such as Franklin's Titebond II or Titebond for floating floors.

Installation should begin with 3 rows of flooring glued together and held tight with green or blue painters tape, insuring a tight, straight and precise start to the installation. If the starter rows are not tight and straight the remainder of the flooring installation will not be straight either. Start the installation with the tongue facing out (away) from the starter wall. With the tongue facing out, the planks can be tapped together with a tapping block on the tongue to make a snug fit, minimizing damage to the edges of the planks. To help insure a successful start to the installation, allow the starter rows to sit 15 minutes or until the glue sets. After installation of 8 to 10 rows of flooring, stand back and check for crowning or heaving due to tension from tapping or any damage caused by improper tapping on the edges. Continue with the installation cleaning any glue at the seams with a clean white cotton cloth, barely damp with water.

Finish the job by using Century Wood Repair kits or Fillers to fill any small chipped corners, voids or gaps along seams and then clean the floor with a hardwood floor cleaner available from your dealer. Install the needed molding or trims and the job is complete.

Notice: Restrict foot traffic on the newly installed floor for minimum of 12 hours.

The warranty of separation on the planks is the responsibility of the flooring mechanic, provided there is no glue failure. Glue failure would be the responsibility of the adhesive manufacturer.

MAINTENANCE

Century Engineered Hardwood Floors are very easily maintained. No wax, no mess. Use Columbia's Hardwood Floor Cleaner and specialty terry cloth flooring mop available from flooring retailers.

STEP ONE: Vacuum or sweep your floor to remove any particles that could scratch your floor.

Warning: Vacuums with a beater bar or power rotary brush head can damage a wood floor and never should be used.

STEP TWO: Apply the cleaner directly to the terry cloth flooring mop, not to the floor!

STEP THREE: Use a back and forth motion with the mop. When the terry cloth cover becomes soiled, simply replace it with a clean one. Cleaning the floor with a soiled cover could cause streaking. The covers are re-usable so simply throw the cover in the wash and dry it, as you would any towel.

12 easy steps to ensure satisfaction with your New Century Hardwood Floor.

• Vacuum or sweep regularly.
• Remove spills promptly using Century Hardwood Floor Cleaner and a clean white cloth.
• Use felt protectors under heavy pieces of furniture and chairs.
• Use protective mats at all exterior entrances. (Do not use black rubber back mats.)
• Spiked heels or shoes in need of repair can severely damage your floor.
• Never wet or damp mop your wood floors. Water can cause damage to wood flooring.
• Never use oil soaps, wax, liquid or other household products to clean your floor.
• The sun's UV rays can change the color of your floor. Rearrange furniture and rugs periodically so that your floor will age evenly.
• Keep animal nails trimmed.
• Protect your floor by using a dolly for moving furniture or appliances. Never slide or roll heavy furniture or appliances across the floor.
• Never use steam cleaners on your wood floors. This will force moisture into the wood and can cause damage to your flooring.
• Use FLOORING SUPERSTORE Prefinished Moldings.