Installation for Solid Hardwood Flooring

SOLID PLANK & STRIP NAIL DOWN INSTALLATION

Attention: Installer / Owner. The patterns and color variations created in a living tree are, like all of nature, never repeated. Remember that your newly installed floor will vary from samples or pictures shown. One should not expect uniformity from hardwood. Expect instead a beautiful and natural variation BEST Hardwood Flooring is manufactured in accordance with industry standards, which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may be of any type, whether manufactured or natural.

Prior to installation, the installer must determine that job site conditions meet or exceed standards set forth by the industry as necessary for a proper installation. BEST will decline responsibility for situations associated with improper installation or job site conditions. The installer and owner should work together as final inspector of grade, manufacture, and factory finish. Pieces you consider imperfect should be used in hidden areas or closets, should be cut off, or held out of the floor. Any doubtful piece should not be used. Please note the BEST Hardwood Flooring Warranty does not cover labor for defects visible prior to installation. The use of putty, stain or filler for the enhancement of the floor should be accepted as normal.

PRE-INSTALLATION: STORING AND HANDLING

Material should be on the job site at least 72 hours before being installed. Open the cartons, but do not remove the product from the cartons. Make sure the heating/cooling is set within the normal temperature range. The flooring is acclimated and ready for installation when it has reached a moisture level consistent with the job site and normal living conditions.

General Inspection

All work involving water, such as pouring basement concrete floors, drywall and plaster work, plumbing,etc. should be completed well in advance of floor delivery.


We recommend three types of sub-floor; plywood, solid wood planks (1 x 6 inch or larger), or sleepers (2 x 4 inch). Each sub-floor has separate installation instructions (below).

• Plywood. The plywood should be either 5/8” or 3/4” thick. If plywood is being laid on joists, place it at right angles to the joists and be certain to leave at least 1/8” to 1/4” gap between each sheet to allow for expansion.
• Solid Wood Sub-floor. Solid planks should be nailed diagonally across the joists with a 3/4” gap between the boards.
• Concrete. There are several methods of installing strip flooring on concrete. One method is to use 5/8” or 3/4” plywood. It is recommended that a vapor barrier be used prior to installation of the floor; preferably, a 4-6 mil. Polyethylene film with enough excess to be placed under the baseboards. Fasten the plywood to the concrete using appropriate fasteners. Another way of laying the plywood on concrete is to cut the plywood in 4 x 4 foot squares and lay it in mastic. A moisture barrier should also be used with this method.

Plywood

The plywood should be either 5/8” or 3/4” thick. If plywood is being laid on joists, place it at right angles to the joists and be certain to leave at least 1/8” to 1/4” gap between each sheet to allow for expansion.

Solid Wood Sub-Foor

Solid planks should be nailed diagonally across the joists with a 1/4” gap between the boards.

Concrete

There are several methods of installing strip flooring on concrete. One method is to use 5/8” or 3/4” plywood. It is recommended that a vapor barrier be used prior to installation of the floor; preferably, a 4-6 mil. Polyethylene film with enough excess to be placed under the baseboards. Fasten the plywood to the concrete using appropriate fasteners. Another way of laying the plywood on concrete is to cut the plywood in 4 x 4 foot squares and lay it in mastic. A moisture barrier should also be used with this method.


Another alternative would be to use “sleepers.” This method uses treated 2 x 4’s laid flat in asphalt mastic every 12” at right angles to the direction of the finished floor. Overlap or stagger the sleepers by at least 4” and make sure each one is securely imbedded in mastic. A polyethylene vapor barrier is then laid over the sleepers. Be certain that you do not puncture or bunch up the polyethylene, or it will not create an effective vapor barrier. Nail the flooring through the plastic into the sleepers. Sub-floors should be level within 1/4” in each 10’. High areas should be sanded flat. Low areas should be filled with latex leveling compound.



Tongue & Groove

Eased Edge


1st Rows Nailed through:


Face

6 Coat Urethane

15# Felt


Subsequent Rows Power Nailed:


Plywood Solid Oak

Wall line

Quarter Round

3/4” Clearance

Polyethylene Film

Face Nail

Blind Nail

15 lb. asphalt felt or
building paper

PRE-INSTALLATION PREPARATION

Tools Needed Supplies Needed

• Tape Measure
• 10D Nails
• Chalk Line or String
• Small Drill Bit (smaller than nails)
• Hammer
• 15# Felt Paper – equal to footage of floor
• Nail Set
• Power Cleats for power nailer? Drill? Saw? Pry Bar? Mallet? Power Nailer
• Broom
• Have trim moldings on the job and use flooring pieces next to them that will assure a good match.
• Remove existing base, shoe mold or thresholds. These pieces will be reinstalled after installation to cover the 3/4” “expansion gap” left at the edge of the room.
• Sub-floors should be cleaned prior to floor installation.
• Make sure the sub-floor is dry to 12% moisture content or less, and will stay that way.
• Undercut doors and casings using an electric jamb saw or handsaw laying flat on a scrap piece of flooring (right). This wilL eliminate difficult scribe cuts.
• Sweep the area to remove all dust and debris.

INSTALLATION

Step 1 – Layout

Helpful Hint – Laying 15# felt between sub-floor and flooring helps prevent squeaking.

• Measure and mark 3 1/4” (right) from the wall at two spots near each end of the room. Drive a nail at each spot. Stretch string and tie each end of string around each nail so the nails become posts. Use the string as your flooring guide.
• This dimension should be 4 1/4” when installing 31/4” wide floor.

STEP 2 – INSTALL REMAINING ROWS

• Using the string as a straight edge, lay the first row of flooring in place with the tongue facing the center of the room. Leaving a 3/4” gap at the wall, predrill and face nail 10D (type) nails the entire length of the room 6 to 8” apart.
• Leave 3/4” expansion at each end. Set nails (fill holes with wood putty), then remove the string and guide nails.

Sub-floor beneath felt

15 # felt

Step 3 – Install Remaining Rows

• Continue the laying process (using a power nailer) until the room is complete.
• Helpful Hint – Use flooring lengths that offset (or stagger) the ends 6” or so for a more professional look.
• Carefully cut the last row to leave a 3/4” expansion space (top, right).
• Replace trim moldings.

Other Helpful Hints:

• Do not install this product below ground level. Use ON or ABOVE ground level.
• Make sure power cleats are approved for use in OSB if plywood is not used as a substrate.
• Do not mix lot numbers without checking for color match.
• Lay out several cartons to make sure of quality and grading, then “rack” or stagger pieces in random lengths.
• Leave 3/4” at the edges for expansion. Cover the space with trim molding (bottom,right).
• The power nailer probably can’t be used on the first and last few rows. Predrill, nail with 10D nails, then use wood putty to fill the holes.
• Some rows that are hand nailed may be drilled at an angle through the top of the tongue to hide the nail head.
• Lay flooring perpendicular to the direction of floor joists.
• Occasionally, a piece may be slightly bowed. Nail one end first, then use a pry bar to push the other end in place, nailing as you go.
• The last few rows may need to be face nailed because the nailer can no longer be used safely. Simply repeat the procedure used on the first few rows.
• Using shorter pieces at undercut door jams will help when fitting flooring into place.

MAINTENANCE

BEST Hardwood Floors are very easily maintained. No wax, no mess. Simply use BEST Floor Cleaner and a specialty terry cloth flooring mop available from flooring retailers.

Step One

Vacuum or sweep your floor to remove any particles that could scratch your floor.


Warning: Vacuums with a beater bar or power rotary brush head can damage a wood floor and should never be used.

Step Two

Apply the BEST Cleaner directly to the terry cloth flooring mop, not the floor.

Step Three

Use a back and forth motion with the mop. When the terry cloth cover becomes soiled, simply replace it with a clean one. Cleaning the floor with a soiled cover could cause streaking. The covers are re-usable so simply throw the cover in the wash and dry it as you would any towel.

Tips and Warnings

• Countersink and fill all nail holes.
• Vacuum or sweep regularly.
• Remove spills promptly using BEST Floor Cleaner and a clean white cloth.
• Use felt protectors under heavy pieces of furniture and chairs.
• Use protective mats at all exterior entrances.
• Spiked heels or shoes in need of repair can severely damage your floor.
• Never wet or damp mop your wood floors. Water can cause damage to wood flooring.
• Never use oil soaps, wax, liquid or other household products to clean your floor.
• The sun’s UV rays can change the color of your floor.
• Keep animal nails trimmed.
• Protect your floor when using a dolly for moving furniture or appliances. Never slide or roll heavy furniture or appliances across the floor.
• If your floor becomes scratched or dull, repairs can often be made using repair accessories.